Experience an Unforgettable Fusion of Japanese and Korean Cuisine in the Heart of Mayfair, Crafted by the World-Renowned Chef Akira Back
I was fortunate enough to be invited to an immersive culinary experience like no other, last week, set against the backdrop of the architecturally stunning and light-flooded, marble filled Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Mayfair, sitting on Hanover Square in London.
This iconic hotel, the second Mandarin Oriental in the city, is a beacon of luxury and style. The restaurant’s interior is a masterpiece of contemporary design. With its minimalist aesthetic, rich materials, and neutral tones, the space is both serene and sophisticated. It is an instagrammer’s delight and one of the most modern, opulent yet relaxed settings in Mayfair.
The expansive windows allow natural light to flood the room, while carefully curated art pieces add a touch of personality and charm.
Recently, London has seen an influx of high-end hotels, but the Mandarin Oriental Mayfair stands out, not only for its spectacularly modern and luxurious design but also for its culinary offerings. The hotel opening is led by seasoned General Manager Susan Hatje, and it was a highlight of my lunch there to see her roaming Akira Back chatting with guests, clearly thrilled to be at the helm of her new hotel.
The restaurant is led by the internationally acclaimed chef Akira Back, and this extraordinary dining destination brings together the best of Japanese and Korean cuisine, infused with his unique creative flair, and in a setting and with service that is off the charts.
Akira Back, who was born in Korea and raised in Aspen, Colorado, has garnered a global reputation for his inventive approach to cooking and for his commitment to sustainability. His debut in the UK at this restaurant marks a new chapter in London’s vibrant food scene.Outside of the UK, he’s big. He has restaurants in 18 cities including Jakarta, Istanbul, Paris and Las Vegas. Back is also a regular on American TV.
The menu at Akira Back’s restaurant is a celebration of his culinary philosophy—bold, innovative, and fresh. There is a vast beverage offering, featuring fine wines, sake, and inventive cocktails like the Wasabi Martini and Yuzu Mul, – I left it to the skilled sommelier to take my hand and lead me down the path of wine pairings over a long Friday lunch. What a genius decision that was.
My expansive lunch began with some lightly salted edamame and a glass of Moet & Chandon NV champagne – a lovely way to begun to slow down and soak up the incredible energy and atmosphere of what is one of the most modern, spectacular spaces for lunch in the heart of London.
The meal officially began with two cold and two hot entrees. The AB Tune and Eringi (mushroom) pizza with umami aioli , shiso and truffle oil. More like a thin pita bread, this is a unique crunchy, cool and perfectly textured dish which matched brilliantly on a 33 degree sunny London day with a glass of Moet & Chandon. This dish is one Akira Back is famous for – and it is truly creative and enjoyable as a starter.
The Jeju Domi – sea bream with tobiko and chojang was delicately flavoured, and consisted of a plum piece of fish sitting in a yellow buttery style sauce tasted more Korean/French than Japanese and delicious. Our waiter, Ly was Vitenamese and bursting with explanations, service and assistance – we loved her instantly. By the end of the meal she felt like a friend.
The hot AB taco with waygu bulgogi and roasted tomato ponzu was fun. Tasty mince meat sat in a mini taco shell, providing texture and a rich, wagyu beef flavour. The dynamite lobster was incredible served with pickle shimeji.
The Chateau Changyu Moser, Family Blanc de Noir from north west China was a brilliant suggestion from our sommelier. Who knew Chinese wine was so good? It was such a thrill to try something so innovative and delicious. The nose was gorgeous, exotic – floral, almost like perfume, but the wine itself tasted clean, with some hints of peach, rose and a little added fresh floral. Overall the flavour was well rounded and smooth. I have not stopped raving about it.
The first main, jidori chicken was presented as art, with unique “rainbow” ceramic rectangular plates. Again Back is known for his attention to detail in terms of not just produce and food but also dishes and food design itself.
A sensationally unique aspect of the dish was what I would call “chicken crackling” – deep fried chicken skin, which was crunchy, rich, salty, to die for chicken skin. The grilled asparagus with Ikura sake butter and lotus chips was clean and delicious as was the glazed mushroom with yuzu soy butter.
Served with potato puree teriyaki, the whole course felt more like a modern English dish than either Korean or Japanese. It was presented elegantly, and was fully flavoured, a hearty dish and the potato puree tasted like comfort food.
The Austrian Weingut Ebner-Ebenauer Poysdorf Bursting Gruner Vetliner was another suggestion from the well informed sommelier who was determined to rock my wine world, and successfully did so at every turn. This was another magnificent stray from the well trodden white wine path. Dry, crisp, fresh with loads of flavour, I loved this with the sushi.
Sushi was next – a Japanese highlight of the menu. The Hot Mess was sashimi poke with crab tempura, and spizy ponzu oil – delicious in every sense. The Cow-wow was marinated bulgohi beef with coleslaw – again a unique combination and making the sushi taste a bit more Western and frankly fun.
For a large meal, we didn’t feel overly full – certainly satiated but a lot of the dishes are clean and relatively healthy.
For dessert, I can never go past chocolate, and the chocolate in a cup did not disappoint. The presentation on the Akira Back signature plate with splattered cream and white chocolate artistically on top of the chocolate itself was fabulously stylish – fitting within this extraordinary dining room.
The matcha meringue dessert was also striking in its presentation – a theme at Akira Back. The feel was elegant and super sweet.
Sugary meringue petals blended with the less sweet matcha to again create a textural taste sensation, a theme of my lunch at Akira Back, my first enjoying his unique food. I liked the matcha but have to say think the chocolate had already won my heart, but that is nothing new for me.
Tea was served with gorgeous matcha and dark chocolate truffles – amazing. The tea menu is amazing – long, diverse and with everything you could dream of.
Akira Back is a sensational special occasion restaurant – and the menu is incredibly diverse. If Asia IS the future of luxury hotels and dining, then Akira Back’s cuisine could be leading the way globally. The dining experience is refreshingly experimental, creative and unique – and truly global.
For an exclusive dining experience, three private dining rooms offer a more intimate atmosphere, perfect for special occasions or business meetings.
Akira Back is not just a dining destination; it’s a culinary journey that promises to leave a lasting impression. I will be back.
For further food and beverage offerings at The Mandarin Oriental Mayfair: The all-day dining experience Back has created at the Mandarin Oriental Mayfair is truly exceptional, with a menu that reflects Back’s culinary journey and his deep commitment to sustainability.
From breakfast, featuring innovative Asian dishes alongside classic international options, to his signature Bento Boxes at lunch, and an array of delicate snacks and sharing plates in the evening, every dish is crafted with the finest seasonal ingredients, sourced locally wherever possible – and bursts of creativity at every turn.
Click here for a review of The Mandarin Oriental Paris where Renae stayed earlier this year.
